A Friendly Corner

There I was in Madrid, Spain, hankering for my Coca-Cola. I could have taken one from the fridge in my room. The place where I stay knows me well and always provides a fresh stock of my favorite beverage. But that wouldn’t put me in the thrall of the city. I didn’t have to venture very far. Diagonally across the street from my door was this little market.

The people working there might have been straight from central casting. There was a husband and wife team, both about five feet tall and exhibiting that charming helpfulness that makes every visit to the store a joy. It took them two tries to peg me as American. They quickly begged forgiveness for the graffiti on the wall outside their store. I told them it meant nothing to me, that I was in search of an ice-cold Coca-Cola. Still, they were ashamed that someone had defiled their corner. They didn’t want me or any other visitors to get the impression that their neighborhood was full of bad people. I said in my shabby Spanish that this is one of the nicest neighborhoods in all of Madrid. They agreed but shook a fist at some kids who needed a lesson or two. I purchased the Coke, a few small items, and took my leave.

Those shopkeepers are a declining breed, not only in Spain but the world over. They’re the ones who will chat with you, take an interest in the neighborhood, and tell you to ask for their friend, who on their recommendation, will treat you like family at a local restaurant. Patronize them whenever you can. It’s a genuine experience that makes a trip memorable.

As always, ENJOY! Coca-Cola ICE COLD.

Published in: on June 23, 2008 at 10:16 am  Comments (3)  
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A Mission

While traveling about Spain, I invariably encounter pairs of older women out and about. Usually they give the appearance that they’re on a mission of great importance. Arm in arm, up the streets they go, toting oversized handbags and parcels to their critical destination. For all I know, they’re simply going home or to visit friends. Ah, but it’s fun to spin a little story. Maybe they’re delivering critical supplies needed for clandestine research that will save the world. Like these two in Cuenca:

I was on the easy part of this street. That is on the way down. Looking over the wall, I saw them coming up the lower part, before the corner at the right of the frame. They chugged up, one foot after the other, undeterred by the steep grade. I managed to snap this picture before they saw me, then quickly turned the camera away so as not to be offensive. But there was no foul. I touched my hat, they smiled, and went inside to complete their mission, whatever it happened to be.

Published in: on June 20, 2008 at 6:58 pm  Comments (2)  
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The Romans Built This

The Romans built plenty of things that are still standing. They must have known what they were doing. Plus, they built with stone, big blocks of stone. It’s one of the few materials that lasts thousands of years. In Segovia, Spain, it is impossible to miss the aqueduct. It passes through the middle of the city. I took this photo from the top:

The blocks of stone are massive enough to have their own gravity. Each one has a divot cut into it, which is where archeologists figure a giant metal tongs fit when lifting the stones into space. It must have been an incredible effort to build such things. And just think, this aqueduct carried water for more than 1,500 years. Can you think of any modern systems that last even 10% of that time? Amazing.

Here’s another view, this one taken from the bell tower of an old church.

That’s the boom of a modern crane sticking out across the frame. If the Romans had such equipment, they might still rule the known world. Nonetheless, they didn’t, so like all empires, things fell apart. Still, they left behind some brilliant feats of engineering. Any visit to Spain treats the visitor to a number of Roman sites. I visited one called Italica, which was a Roman city near present-day Seville. I’ll post a photo from there, too.

Segovia has relics from many eras, including romanesque churches, a medieval castle, a massive cathedral, not to mention various other attractions for the historically interested. And the food, well, bring your appetite.

Published in: on June 20, 2008 at 11:02 am  Comments (2)  
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Cuenca’s Gorge

No doubt you’ve seen many great photos of the “hanging houses” of Cuenca, Spain. Here is a look into the gorge above which those famous houses hang.

It’s a long way down; that’s for sure. What’s interesting is the way the land on that narrow valley floor is being used. Not one square inch is wasted. After touring about town, we went down there. The patchwork fields were more like large gardens, the soil black and lush. No crops were in season, but you can bet that whatever was planted was sure to yield a bountiful harvest. There was also the church on the bluff to the right side of the frame. It was another imposing structure, standing out to the very edge, it’s walls rising up from the rock below.

Landscapes and structures like these are one of the things I like about Spain. Each one is a series of surprises and unexpected revelations. At times it is hard to grasp all of them. It takes practice to seek them out and not be overwhelmed by the major attractions. We were driving from Cuenca to Granada and along the way came to a small town. After filling the tank at a gas station, I noticed a series of walls about five or six blocks away. I motored over only to discover the remains of what must have been a small cathedral. No one was around, not even a stray dog. We walked among the ruins, undisturbed for the better part of an hour. There was no roof and several walls appeared to be only half their original height. And yet the feeling of what had been there remained.

I imagine there are many such places not only in Spain but around the world. There are too many for all of them to be restored or even preserved as they are. I was thrilled to take my own little tour through the past, now wishing I had taken some photos to have for the future. Given the very good digital cameras today and the low prices of memory cards, I won’t make that mistake again.

Published in: on June 19, 2008 at 9:47 am  Comments (2)  
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