Charlie’s Bar (supplemental)

I should have posted this first but didn’t think of it until later in the day. Charlie’s hobby was painting pictures. He had a tiny studio on the grounds of his “country manor” as he referred to the old Cunuco house by the beach in Savaneta. There he would paint using acrylic automobile paint in an abstract way. He did portraits and landscapes, decorated totem poles and common chairs. To his friends and some of the tourists he would give these works of art as tokens of his appreciation. Here is the one he gave me.

During my tugboat days, I would often times put this little picture in the wheelhouse, beside the compass. It was a welcome sight on cold or gloomy days. It also reminded me of all the good times I’d had with Charlie and my other pals in Aruba. Now it sits on a little stand beside my bed. It may not be a Rembrandt, but it was a personal gift from a man who had style.

Life isn’t so much short as it is precious. Don’t waste a single moment.

Published in: on June 15, 2008 at 7:08 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Charlie’s Bar

Charlie Brouns, Jr. was the type of person books are written about. He was born in San Nicolaas, Aruba, bounced around Europe a little, then went to Colombia for a number of years before returning to Aruba for good. His father, Charlie, Sr., took over a bar on Main Street in San Nicolaas in 1941. The bar was a haven for sailors and refinery workers as well as the townspeople. With the changing fortunes of the local refinery this clientele declined over the years until Charlie, Jr (hence simply Charlie) decided to turn his father’s bar into a “tourist trap.” He succeeded better than anyone anticipated.

The above photo of the exterior that faces Main Street shows the entrance to the bar and gift shop. Note the motorcycles parked on the sidewalk. There is a Harley Davidson dealership on the island and visitors rent bikes to take a private tour. Ultimately they end up at Charlie’s for some refreshment at the end. It’s common for five to ten bikes to roll into town, loud as an invading army. But it’s all in good fun! In the upper right corner of the photo is a small balcony. This is where Charlie used to sit and watch the town at night. He usually had the company of his dogs or a cat named Screwball.

The interior of the bar is something else. You won’t find more junk per square foot anywhere (at least that I know of). Charlie took trinkets from those original sailors and refinery workers and began hanging them up. Tourists leave behind everything from expired driver’s licenses to old cameras. The following photo shows the evidence.

The bell at the right side of the frame above figures prominently in An Island Away. Anyone who rings the bell has just bought those at the bar a free drink. So be careful, unless you’re in a jovial mood and want to be generous to those of us who would appreciate such a gesture and most likely reward you with the same. Another interesting item in the photo are the small, blue and white liquor bottles shaped like houses. There’s a line of them on the sagging shelf beyond the bell. These were given out by KLM Airlines. If they still contain the original liquor they can be worth up to $1,000. Each one is a replica of a real house in Holland. (My personal favorite is the “WE REPAIR HANGOVERS” sign.)

In September of 2004, Charlie and his friends (including me) were all having a fun afternoon at the bar. He went upstairs to his living quarters to change his shirt. Something happened on the way back as Charlie took a tragic fall that cost his life. Heroic efforts were made on the part of a physician who happened to be with us at the time. To no avail. Our dear friend and host had left this world for the next. We all miss Charlie, his quick wit, friendly teasing, and infinite capacity to improvise to make a regular good time so much better. He always said, “You have to improvise!”

Published in: on June 15, 2008 at 11:25 am  Leave a Comment  
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The Flip Side

My novel, An Island Away, takes place in San Nicolaas, Aruba. San Nicolaas was actually the second capital of Aruba, the town of Savaneta being the first and currently Oranjestaad is the seat of government. San Nicolaas experienced a massive boom when an oil refinery was built there in order to process crude oil from the Lake Maracaibo area of Venezuela. Originally known as Lago Oil, the refinery was soon purchased by Esso, (aka Exxon, formerly Standard Oil of New Jersey). Today, the refinery is a shadow of what it once was. During World War II, it was the largest oil refinery in the world. Winston Churchill’s strategic world maps featured Aruba prominently because of this.

Here is a view of the refinery as seen from Roger’s Beach.

This was the photo used on the back cover of the first printing of An Island Away. The view is not only the flip side of the book but also the flip side of paradise. Aruba is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Caribbean. The island has more repeat visitors than any other. And they deserve the fine reputation they have for excellent hospitality, great beaches, and good restaurants that every tourist can enjoy.

Yet, there is more to Aruba than umbrella drinks and sunshine. Thanks to the refinery, San Nicolaas was once a thriving boomtown. Due to the many small ships calling at the port, as well as the thousands of workers at the refinery, the town had more than thirty barrooms in six square blocks These bars doubled as brothels. I’ve seen photos and heard stories of those days, when it was more like the Wild West than what we think of as the Caribbean. These adventures were described to me by people who grew up there in the 1950’s and 60’s. First-hand accounts are the best.

At first I thought these accounts were exaggerations. However, as I spent more and more time in San Nicolaas, I learned that, if anything, they were diminished to protect the innocent. And the San Nicolaas that I first experienced was about 20% of what my friends were talking about. Still, it was a bawdy good time that led to a great story. One of the reasons I wrote An Island Away was to put down permanently what it was like to run the town the way these people did. Keeps the exaggeration to a minimum as we get older.

And so, if you get to Aruba, or another popular destination, take an afternooon or at least a couple of hours to check out the other side. You might be surprised what you find. In a later post I will have photos of Charlie’s Bar, and talk about Charlie Brouns, Jr., the man who introduced me to the ways of San Nicolaas. Don’t forget, excerpts from the book and other info are on my website, www.danielputkowski.com.

Published in: on June 15, 2008 at 10:07 am  Leave a Comment  
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