The Way to Go

The cleverness of cats should never be underestimated. As the old joke goes, the ancient Egyptians worships cats, and cats have never forgotten it. I’m not sure what other animal can make this claim to fame. There I was in Cuenca, Spain, looking for a little place to eat, when I spotted this cat. I figured he was on his way to a snack or a nap. (Two things I also happen to enjoy, usually in that order.)

My gray and white short haired friend got to the top of the stairs, hung a left, and leaped into an open window! Brilliant for him but I was clearly not invited. As for me, well, I was on my own. Luckily, just down the lane was a narrow restaurant I might never have found. (You see, that was the cat’s plan, to show me the way and leave the bill to my account.) It turned out to be a good place to practice Spanish for this native English speaker. The waiter asked me a dozen questions, everything from where I was from to why had I come to Cuenca to where I was going next. He was an affable fellow. Like so many Spaniards I meet in my travels, he was intensely proud of his culture and immediate family.

After the meal I was back on the streets, looking for more interesting things, keeping a sharp eye for cats and other sneaky creatures.

Published in: on June 27, 2008 at 11:54 am  Comments (1)  
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A Friendly Corner

There I was in Madrid, Spain, hankering for my Coca-Cola. I could have taken one from the fridge in my room. The place where I stay knows me well and always provides a fresh stock of my favorite beverage. But that wouldn’t put me in the thrall of the city. I didn’t have to venture very far. Diagonally across the street from my door was this little market.

The people working there might have been straight from central casting. There was a husband and wife team, both about five feet tall and exhibiting that charming helpfulness that makes every visit to the store a joy. It took them two tries to peg me as American. They quickly begged forgiveness for the graffiti on the wall outside their store. I told them it meant nothing to me, that I was in search of an ice-cold Coca-Cola. Still, they were ashamed that someone had defiled their corner. They didn’t want me or any other visitors to get the impression that their neighborhood was full of bad people. I said in my shabby Spanish that this is one of the nicest neighborhoods in all of Madrid. They agreed but shook a fist at some kids who needed a lesson or two. I purchased the Coke, a few small items, and took my leave.

Those shopkeepers are a declining breed, not only in Spain but the world over. They’re the ones who will chat with you, take an interest in the neighborhood, and tell you to ask for their friend, who on their recommendation, will treat you like family at a local restaurant. Patronize them whenever you can. It’s a genuine experience that makes a trip memorable.

As always, ENJOY! Coca-Cola ICE COLD.

Published in: on June 23, 2008 at 10:16 am  Comments (3)  
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A Mission

While traveling about Spain, I invariably encounter pairs of older women out and about. Usually they give the appearance that they’re on a mission of great importance. Arm in arm, up the streets they go, toting oversized handbags and parcels to their critical destination. For all I know, they’re simply going home or to visit friends. Ah, but it’s fun to spin a little story. Maybe they’re delivering critical supplies needed for clandestine research that will save the world. Like these two in Cuenca:

I was on the easy part of this street. That is on the way down. Looking over the wall, I saw them coming up the lower part, before the corner at the right of the frame. They chugged up, one foot after the other, undeterred by the steep grade. I managed to snap this picture before they saw me, then quickly turned the camera away so as not to be offensive. But there was no foul. I touched my hat, they smiled, and went inside to complete their mission, whatever it happened to be.

Published in: on June 20, 2008 at 6:58 pm  Comments (2)  
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The Romans Built This

The Romans built plenty of things that are still standing. They must have known what they were doing. Plus, they built with stone, big blocks of stone. It’s one of the few materials that lasts thousands of years. In Segovia, Spain, it is impossible to miss the aqueduct. It passes through the middle of the city. I took this photo from the top:

The blocks of stone are massive enough to have their own gravity. Each one has a divot cut into it, which is where archeologists figure a giant metal tongs fit when lifting the stones into space. It must have been an incredible effort to build such things. And just think, this aqueduct carried water for more than 1,500 years. Can you think of any modern systems that last even 10% of that time? Amazing.

Here’s another view, this one taken from the bell tower of an old church.

That’s the boom of a modern crane sticking out across the frame. If the Romans had such equipment, they might still rule the known world. Nonetheless, they didn’t, so like all empires, things fell apart. Still, they left behind some brilliant feats of engineering. Any visit to Spain treats the visitor to a number of Roman sites. I visited one called Italica, which was a Roman city near present-day Seville. I’ll post a photo from there, too.

Segovia has relics from many eras, including romanesque churches, a medieval castle, a massive cathedral, not to mention various other attractions for the historically interested. And the food, well, bring your appetite.

Published in: on June 20, 2008 at 11:02 am  Comments (2)  
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