Ballesteros de Calatrava, Spain

Driving through rural Spain can not be overestimated. I’ve been fortunate to make several trips through the countryside by car. Each of them took different paths, revealing parts of the country that are definitely not on the tourist agenda. One such place was a small town named Ballesteros de Calatrava. There is a castle there, perched high on a small mountain. Here’s a look.

This place is straight from the Templer Knight playbook on how to let people know you’re a serious feudal lord. It’s mostly ruins now, but well worth the stop. The drive up the hill takes about 10 minutes because the road is rough and narrow. When you get to the top, however, this is your view:

You can see why they built the castle up there. The commanding view of the surrounding valleys left no chance for any army passing by unnoticed. Of course, then the Templers would be on the march, heading out to break some skulls.

My wife and I stayed at a fantastic hotel in Ballesteros called the Palacio de la Serna. I highly recommend this hotel and its restaurant. Every room is different, every meal excellent. It is owned by an artist who uses some of the outbuildings as his workshops. Thus, you have the benefit of seeing his work, both finished and in progress. It may not be on the itinerary for your first or second visit to Spain. Nonetheless find the time to get there. You won’t be disappointed.

Published in: on September 13, 2008 at 2:08 pm  Comments (1)  
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Plaza Mayor, Madrid

The Plaza Mayor in Madrid, Spain, is a fun place. The photo below is your basic tourist shot. No matter, it would take dozens of photos to document the area.

At street level, there are a wide variety of shops selling everything from old stamps, to hats, to post cards. There’s also a number of restaurants that put their tables in the plaza. Many of these are very good and should not be overlooked. Just a few streets away, you’ll find more restaurants and shops as this area is still the heart of the “old city.” On Sunday mornings, stamp and coin collectors set up their tables under the cloister around the edge of the plaza. I’ve seen some amazing old stamps, stock certificates, and coins on these days. That type of market gives a deeper glimpse into the culture of a place like Madrid.

Last but not least, take a look at that blue sky. It’s one of the simple, and yet stunningly beautiful, things about Spain.

Published in: on September 10, 2008 at 2:50 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Italica, Spain

Not far from Sevilla, Spain, are the ruins of the Roman city Italica. The site remains under excavation as there is plenty more to discover. It is an amazing place to visit, especially when you consider that this place was a long journey from Rome during the days of the Empire. In this first photo, you’ll see a piece of the amphitheater.

One thing I enjoyed about this site was the freedom to walk about the ruins. It is possible to get very close and thereby see the workmanship and wear of the structures. We walked along the main boulevard of the town, which like all things Roman was laid out in a grid. Villas were set back from this thoroughfare and divided into various neighborhoods. Here’s a view of some standing columns that were part of an important home featuring a central fountain.

I should also mention that this town had a properly functioning water supply and sewer system, two things that would be lost to history for centuries before being restored. Of course, the residents decorated everything, including the floors, like this:

To think that mosaic was hidden beneath the dirt for a thousand years! Amazing. But it survived, as did many more like it. I highly recommend a visit to Italica. It’s only a short distance from Sevilla. There’s plenty of parking, clean bathroom facilities, and plenty to see and learn. It would also be a good idea to do some reading on the subject to get the most out of it. The map/brochure that is given to you as you enter is in multiple languages and very well done.

Finally, there is a little gas station a few hundred yards up the road from the entrance. There ICE-COLD Coca-Cola can be had. Refreshing, delicious, satisfying.

Published in: on August 3, 2008 at 1:34 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Spanish Tile

The name of this post should really be Spanish Tile, Part 1. There are so many fantastic examples of Spanish tile both in Spain and around the world that someone could easily earn a doctorate in the subject. I pulled a few examples from my photos taken within the country, basically representative examples of a few of the most traditional forms. Let’s start with this one, the mural at a restaurant.

I like the picture of the travelers on the little coach with the two guys following. Just out of the frame is another explanation about the place, in case the image doesn’t do the job. Murals like this are all over Spain. They liven up the street without the garishness of neon signs. Let’s take a look at another one.

Here you have a much more impressionistic piece of tile work. The glamour lady invites you in from the street. Subtle. Nice. And not bad advertising either. A more traditional front might look like the following:

The place above is looking a little worse for the wear. A few tiles are missing but the name lives on above the door. The monochrome scheme works well, though, and I would venture to say the person who created those tiles did quite a bit of work back in the day.

To my surprise, I found numerous Irish Pubs in Spain. This place, La Fontanilla, may use the term “taberna” but they aren’t shy about announcing the fact that Guinness is served inside. The fountain mural on the left is quite clear as to meaning. The woman on the right, is a bit confusing to me. Are they suggesting there are rooms to rent for weary women travelers? I’m not sure. Sometimes, you’ll see famous works of art recreated in tiles like this. I’ve seen works by el Greco, Picasso, and others recreated in tile and mounted on the outside of buildings in various places around Spain.

This is one of the great things about visiting Spain. There are millions of little discoveries like this, things that make the country eternally interesting and beautiful.

Published in: on July 17, 2008 at 11:23 am  Leave a Comment  
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