Dawn Comes to Vejer

The start of the day is my favorite time. I am a morning person, my wife likes to remind me. Before the sun comes up, I’m already prowling. We were on a trip to Spain with friends and found ourselves in Vejer de la Frontera in Andalucia. This is one of the pueblos blancos, that is the white towns. Of course I was up early, walking the streets, greeting the odd stray cats, and looking for good story material. Here’s a view from the town into the valley below.

The fog rolls in from the sea, shrouding the entire valley from view. Then, as the sun rises, it gradually burns away the veil, leaving a beautiful view from the road that climbs up to Vejer. Driving from town to town in Spain is a favorite activity of mine. They have similarities, but each one has unique characteristics, such as their own style of church, a different type of fountain in the plaza, or a clever group of shops arranged along a winding street. Invariably the people are both hospitable and genuinely pleased to meet the traveler. Of course, the food is beyond excellent, which is why I always wear my expandable pants when I venture to Spain.

Where is your favorite drive? Let me know.

Published in: on July 9, 2008 at 1:36 pm  Comments (2)  
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Stories in Glass

There are many ways to tell a story. There are books, movies, and songs to name a few. There’s also the sculptures and reliefs found in plazas and on the facades of various buildings. And then there is the stained glass of churches. I’m particularly fond of this last one. As mentioned in an earlier post, the right atmosphere greatly enhances a story. Stained glass windows create all sorts of atmosphere from both the inside and the outside. The windows pictured below are from the Cathedral of Almudena, Madrid, Spain.

These windows are more modern than those found in say the Cathedral of Seville. The colors are more vivid, the individual pieces larger. Naturally, more light comes through. This colored light pools on the floor, spreads over the walls, and is unable to be avoided when inside the building. Then, at night, the windows shine outward so that a passerby sees the same scene from the other side thanks to internal illumination. Here’s another window:

 Of course, each window illustrates a scene from a Biblical story, informing the congregation about their faith. It may be hard to imagine a largely illiterate population relying on scenes such as this to access ecclesiastical knowledge. Nonetheless, this method was largely employed and can still be effective.

I’ve also seen stained glass windows with elaborate script at the base mentioning the particular person or organization who sponsored it. Thus, an opportunity to support the church and attain a sort of immortality.

One more window to gaze upon in this post:

While in Cordoba, Spain, I came across a school of the practical arts. Sorry, but I can’t remember the exact name. One of the trades taught at this school was the making of stained glass windows. Fortunately there are people who study and practice this art, going on to become master craftsmen who not only provide a barrier between the elements and us, but also a beautiful cultural expression that lasts for generations if not centuries.

So, when you find yourself on a travel adventure, don’t forget to slow down and let the different elements come to you one at a time. Your experience will be that much more interesting and fulfilling.

Published in: on July 6, 2008 at 12:18 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Postcards for All!

Something I’ve done for years is send postcards to a long list of people. In the days of email and blogs, it seems the postcard may be on its way out. Nonetheless, I maintain the tradition. In the first place, it’s good to support the postman. He has to deliver all that junk mail and I’d prefer to give him a more noble document to carry to its intended destination. Hence the search for the right card, the postage, the mail box or post office. This is also part of the fun. Then there is the issue of what to write.

That’s me in the photo above. Not in England, however, but in Gibraltar. I double check the message on my cards in case there are any last minute second thoughts or additions I’d like to put there. In my notebook, I keep a running list of addresses. This is also part of the fun because every time I scan the list I’m reminded of the people who are important in my life.

Another part of the thrill is hearing from those to whom the postcards were sent. They issue an email, a call, a “you lucky bastard” comment. My favorite responses are the ones that go something like, “I’m going with you next time.” To these I reply, “The more the merrier.” For me travel is about exploration and experience, a pursuit best enjoyed with others.

Published in: on July 5, 2008 at 2:15 pm  Comments (1)  
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Creating Atmosphere, Part 2

And now we go inside two different cathedrals, each with its own particular atmosphere. The first one is the Cathedral in Seville, Spain. Construction began in 1402. Here Columbus is entombed. From this city sailed the conquistadors to a world unkown to Europeans, and this is a look at the interior of their massive center of worship.

Icons and statues stare down from every ledge. The space is darkened by shadows cast by the massive columns, one of which is under repair as seen on the right side of this photo. The weight of this building presses down relentlessly. The windows are relatively small as is typical of the gothic style, offering little light and no escape.

A much newer cathedral can be found in Madrid. This is the Almudena Cathedral, begun in 1883 and completed in 1993. It has an entirely different atmosphere.

Thanks to more modern building techniques, the windows are much larger, illuminating the entire space more evenly. The eye is drawn upward along columns that seem lighter thanks to the brighter color. Here’s another look.

The windows of the celestory at the top of the frame shine gloriously with the same warm sunlight that brings visitors from darker climes to Spain.

Both of these locations exude their own sense of space, presenting the visitor with two unique experiences. So it is in a good story. What are your favorite spaces? What places leave a dramatic impression on you? Let me know.

Published in: on July 3, 2008 at 10:15 am  Comments (4)  
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