Santillana del Mar (2014)

Santillana del Mar is a handsome town in the north of Spain where you’ll find a number of attractions. It’s a tourist spot to be sure, with the Altamira Caves, a zoo, and the Collegiate Church among the many attractions. Here’s a look at the plaza mayor:

Plaza Mayor of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Plaza Mayor of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Notice those flowers on the balcony. Some of the homes here have an almost Alpine quality to them. The winding streets lead past the gift shops to a number of very good restaurants and bars:

Streets of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Streets of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Everything is neat and tidy, amazingly clean for the number of people that pass through here. Don’t miss the views from the edge of town. As you see in the next photo, things are beautiful:

View from the edge of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

View from the edge of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

As many people visit the area, most are from Spain. Visitors from the USA often forgo a stop here for other destinations. However, if you’re looking to delve deeper in the culture, I suggest a jaunt through northern Spain to places like this where you’ll encounter a robust and welcoming culture all its own.

Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain

The Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar was built by the Augustinians who took over a former Benedictine monastery. In this first photo, you see the lines of the main structure built in the Romanesque style:

Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Surely in it’s time, it was an imposing building and it still dominates the town today. Going inside the grounds, you’ll find a very pleasant cloister.

View from inside the cloister at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

View from inside the cloister at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

The columns in this cloister are carved with various religious symbols.

Column detail at Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Column detail at Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

And many are covered with vines.

Another view in the cloister of the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Another view in the cloister of the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Going into the church itself you find an impressive altar piece from the 15th century depicting the martyrdom of Saint Juliana.

15th Century altar piece at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

15th Century altar piece at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

As well as this stone tomb for the saint’s remains:

Saint Juliana at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Saint Juliana at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Not to mention a powerful set of pipes for the organ:

Organ pipes at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

Organ pipes at the Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar, Spain.

The walk through this church is a step back in time. Within its cool environs you’ll find a sense of dignity and piety that may be lacking at times in larger, busier cathedrals. As always, enter with respect and take your time to absorb the many details that fill this holy place.

 

Supper, Villa de Ábalos, Spain

While staying overnight at the Hotel Villa de Ábalos, I highly recommend eating supper there. When you make your reservation, be sure to let them know you would like to dine as well. It is a truly home-cooked, Spanish meal. The menu changes with the seasons and the availability of fresh ingredients. Here is the carta as provided during my visit:

Menu for supper at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

Menu for supper at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

These little gems were presented to start the meal:

A little something to start the meal at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

A little something to start the meal at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

The two appetizers were creative and delicious. The first was a leeks and spinach terrine that you see in the next photo:

Leek and spinach terrine appetizer at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

Leek and spinach terrine appetizer at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

The other appetizer was a sautéed vegetable medley that I was so anxious to eat, I forgot to snap a photo. But, next came the entrée, and what a fantastic one it was. Slowly cooked oxtail then removed from the bone and placed inside a sort of dumpling with a very nice sauce, as you see in the next photo:

Oxtail presented inside a dumpling for supper at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

Oxtail presented inside a dumpling for supper at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

This incredible meal was finished with a warm almond cake and vanilla ice-cream that truly hit the spot:

Warm almond cake with vanilla ice-cream at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

Warm almond cake with vanilla ice-cream at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

All this was served in a pleasant dining room you see here:

Dining room at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

Dining room at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

I would also like to mention the owner of this fine hotel makes his own wine, which is very good, especially the white. A bottle with dinner or afterwards is a great addition to the meal. Here’s a photo of the bottle:

Preferred wine at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

Preferred wine at Hotel Villa de Ábalos.

When traveling, be sure to enjoy the local cuisine as much as possible.

Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain (2014)

Hotel Villa de Ábalos has been among my favorite places to stay in Spain. It is located in the center of a small village with tiny streets and an almost medieval atmosphere.

Facade of Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

Facade of Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

However, the hotel is decidedly modern within its historic shell. You’ll have all the modern conveniences in every room. Here’s a look:

Room 12 at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

Room 12 at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

The bathroom features everything you need to be comfortable:

Bathroom of Room 12, Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

Bathroom of Room 12, Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

You’ll also find inviting common areas where you can gather with fellow travelers to relax and share stories from the journey:

Second floor common area at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

Second floor common area at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

And another similar space on the ground floor:

Salon at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

Salon at Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Spain.

I stayed at this hotel four years ago, and it was a pleasure to return. They added a small bar in the reception area where you can enjoy a glass of wine and various tapas. Locals from the town stop by and it was fun to chat with them, learning a bit about life in the Rioja area. The owner of this hotel makes his own wine, which is not yet available in the United States. While there, you definitely want to try it because it is among the best I’ve had in Spain. I’ll post more about that and the meals at Villa de Ábalos soon. Check back frequently so you don’t miss anything.