Sasamón, Spain

Sasamón, Spain features a magnificent “little” cathedral that you would not expect in this location. The town is quite small but on the Road to Santiago and therefore a stopover for pilgrims both presently and in days gone by. I call this a “little” cathedral because it has all the features of larger examples. The correct name is Santa María la Real.

The scene above gives a sweeping introduction to both the town and the church. You see the fountain there and if you were able to turn around, you’d be looking at the ayuntamiento, or government house. The gateway and yard beyond beckons the traveler to the church in the background. The church went through several iterations as it grew or was remodeled. You can see remnants of the different styles as you amble about the grounds.

In the cloister, you’ll find examples of cut stone artistry, still standing centuries after it was put in place. Inside are tableaus like this one.

A dramatic altar piece…

…and in the choir loft a well-played organ.

…and a baptismal font with fine carvings, too…

In particular, note the sleeping dogs around the base. Then have a gander at the pulpit, also of carved stone.

Again, there must have been hundreds of masons and no shortage of master craftsman pounding hammers and chisels all day long to build structures like this. It wasn’t the only church in town either, there were three, two of which survive. While walking through this church, we were the only ones present. Having a site like this to yourself is another honor. Enjoy it and be respectful.

Published in: on July 11, 2010 at 11:42 am  Leave a Comment  
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Posada Casa Vieja, Spain

Posada Casa Vieja, located in Turégano (not far from Segovia) stands on an old village square that will take you back centuries. The photo below hangs on the wall in the dining room, along with several others taken during the early days of photography through the 1920’s or so.

The posada itself is the building on the left with the three balconied windows on the upper level. Not much has changed in the past couple of hundred years as you can see from the next photo.

We happened upon this place in search of a good supper. (Sadly, supper the night before was awful and I needed culinary redemption to preserve my faith in Spanish cooking.) I saw local families loitering near this place and decided to pop in and see what was on offer. Upon entering the building you’re in the taberna, which is a welcoming spot for drinks and small fare.

The fellow behind the bar is the owner (third generation at this point) and he works hard keeping his customers happy, as does his waitstaff who left no need unfulfilled. So, we take a seat in the dining room where those photos are hanging.

After ordering, I scope out the photos which show village life back in the day in black and white glory. Things were not easy back then but the people have risen to the challenge. Then the food arrives. After a couple of salads, a sea bass filet comes.

Sorry about the shaky photography. There was wine, too. Then a bit or roast baby pig.

That dish is famous in this part of Spain. Don’t pass it up. Tasty, crispy, very good! After the meal, I learned my waitress was originally from Poland but now living in Spain with her husband and baby on the way. The owner and I also had a nice chat about my other favorite restaurant in Aruba, Casa Vieja, which is a Colombian joint. He laughed at that and my rudimentary Spanish. Then we were on our way for a good night’s sleep before trekking on through the hills and dales of España the next day.

Published in: on July 10, 2010 at 12:47 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Hotel Villa de Ábalos

Hotel Villa de Ábalos is a marvelous place to stay in the Rioja region of Spain. I’ve been waxing poetic about many of the small hotels that served me well during the past visit, and they all did a fine job. There’s always a few that stand out, and Villa de Ábalos takes the trophy. Ábalos itself is a tiny town, surrounded by vineyards and bodegas. There are some larger boroughs nearby, but I found no reason to explore them when this tiny spot had everything to make the stay comfortable and interesting.

You see the building there in the photo above. It’s hard to imagine the entire structure was gutted and rebuilt by the current owner. He has a great scrapbook filled with photos showing the work in progress. Take time to check it out. In doing so, you’ll gain a greater appreciation for the hard work the individuals invest into these establishments.

At the reception desk I was met by a very competent man who gave me a tour of the facility, asked about arranging tours, restaurants, and directions to other destinations. From here, we moved up the stairs.

The stairs are original to the palacio into which the hotel was built. At the top, you’ll notice a still. Hmmm…. Rioja is a wine region but someone liked to make a beverage a bit stronger. Nothing was said but a few knowing winks and nods were exchanged. Anyway, into the room we went.

Cozy, comfortable.

This place had steam heat directed through radiators. It had the kind of hot water that cleans away the road grit, too. What a blessing after some less than tepid showers! There are also a number of common areas for you to gather, have a glass of wine, and do a bit of work on the WiFi.

Speaking of  wine… the owner makes his own, both red and white. This year, 2010, he just released his first white, and it was delicious. We drank a bottle in the afternoon and another with supper, which the man served himself. Talk about personal service! I’ll have a separate post about that. In the mean time, if you like to tour wineries, kickback with a glass, and do it in style, Hotel Villa de Ábalos should be at the top of your list.

Published in: on July 9, 2010 at 11:43 am  Leave a Comment  
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Burgos Monuments

Burgos, Spain, is a university town, sometimes overrun by that crowd. At the same time, you’ll find some significant monuments, like the cathedral and the old city gate.

In the cathedral above, El Cid is buried. The history of El Cid is well worth reading, especially for lessons in political will and military conquest. Then there is the old city gate.

Hard to miss that one. Just inside the gate you’ll find a plaza with several streets radiating from it. Along those streets are the bars and restaurants frequented by the students.

If you’re looking at the cathedral facade and thinking that it reminds you of one in northern Europe, you’d be spot on because the architect was from Cologne, Germany.

Published in: on July 8, 2010 at 11:08 am  Leave a Comment  
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