Plaza Mayor, Madrid

The Plaza Mayor in Madrid, Spain, is a fun place. The photo below is your basic tourist shot. No matter, it would take dozens of photos to document the area.

At street level, there are a wide variety of shops selling everything from old stamps, to hats, to post cards. There’s also a number of restaurants that put their tables in the plaza. Many of these are very good and should not be overlooked. Just a few streets away, you’ll find more restaurants and shops as this area is still the heart of the “old city.” On Sunday mornings, stamp and coin collectors set up their tables under the cloister around the edge of the plaza. I’ve seen some amazing old stamps, stock certificates, and coins on these days. That type of market gives a deeper glimpse into the culture of a place like Madrid.

Last but not least, take a look at that blue sky. It’s one of the simple, and yet stunningly beautiful, things about Spain.

Published in: on September 10, 2008 at 2:50 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Stories in Glass

There are many ways to tell a story. There are books, movies, and songs to name a few. There’s also the sculptures and reliefs found in plazas and on the facades of various buildings. And then there is the stained glass of churches. I’m particularly fond of this last one. As mentioned in an earlier post, the right atmosphere greatly enhances a story. Stained glass windows create all sorts of atmosphere from both the inside and the outside. The windows pictured below are from the Cathedral of Almudena, Madrid, Spain.

These windows are more modern than those found in say the Cathedral of Seville. The colors are more vivid, the individual pieces larger. Naturally, more light comes through. This colored light pools on the floor, spreads over the walls, and is unable to be avoided when inside the building. Then, at night, the windows shine outward so that a passerby sees the same scene from the other side thanks to internal illumination. Here’s another window:

 Of course, each window illustrates a scene from a Biblical story, informing the congregation about their faith. It may be hard to imagine a largely illiterate population relying on scenes such as this to access ecclesiastical knowledge. Nonetheless, this method was largely employed and can still be effective.

I’ve also seen stained glass windows with elaborate script at the base mentioning the particular person or organization who sponsored it. Thus, an opportunity to support the church and attain a sort of immortality.

One more window to gaze upon in this post:

While in Cordoba, Spain, I came across a school of the practical arts. Sorry, but I can’t remember the exact name. One of the trades taught at this school was the making of stained glass windows. Fortunately there are people who study and practice this art, going on to become master craftsmen who not only provide a barrier between the elements and us, but also a beautiful cultural expression that lasts for generations if not centuries.

So, when you find yourself on a travel adventure, don’t forget to slow down and let the different elements come to you one at a time. Your experience will be that much more interesting and fulfilling.

Published in: on July 6, 2008 at 12:18 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Creating Atmosphere, Part 2

And now we go inside two different cathedrals, each with its own particular atmosphere. The first one is the Cathedral in Seville, Spain. Construction began in 1402. Here Columbus is entombed. From this city sailed the conquistadors to a world unkown to Europeans, and this is a look at the interior of their massive center of worship.

Icons and statues stare down from every ledge. The space is darkened by shadows cast by the massive columns, one of which is under repair as seen on the right side of this photo. The weight of this building presses down relentlessly. The windows are relatively small as is typical of the gothic style, offering little light and no escape.

A much newer cathedral can be found in Madrid. This is the Almudena Cathedral, begun in 1883 and completed in 1993. It has an entirely different atmosphere.

Thanks to more modern building techniques, the windows are much larger, illuminating the entire space more evenly. The eye is drawn upward along columns that seem lighter thanks to the brighter color. Here’s another look.

The windows of the celestory at the top of the frame shine gloriously with the same warm sunlight that brings visitors from darker climes to Spain.

Both of these locations exude their own sense of space, presenting the visitor with two unique experiences. So it is in a good story. What are your favorite spaces? What places leave a dramatic impression on you? Let me know.

Published in: on July 3, 2008 at 10:15 am  Comments (4)  
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A Friendly Corner

There I was in Madrid, Spain, hankering for my Coca-Cola. I could have taken one from the fridge in my room. The place where I stay knows me well and always provides a fresh stock of my favorite beverage. But that wouldn’t put me in the thrall of the city. I didn’t have to venture very far. Diagonally across the street from my door was this little market.

The people working there might have been straight from central casting. There was a husband and wife team, both about five feet tall and exhibiting that charming helpfulness that makes every visit to the store a joy. It took them two tries to peg me as American. They quickly begged forgiveness for the graffiti on the wall outside their store. I told them it meant nothing to me, that I was in search of an ice-cold Coca-Cola. Still, they were ashamed that someone had defiled their corner. They didn’t want me or any other visitors to get the impression that their neighborhood was full of bad people. I said in my shabby Spanish that this is one of the nicest neighborhoods in all of Madrid. They agreed but shook a fist at some kids who needed a lesson or two. I purchased the Coke, a few small items, and took my leave.

Those shopkeepers are a declining breed, not only in Spain but the world over. They’re the ones who will chat with you, take an interest in the neighborhood, and tell you to ask for their friend, who on their recommendation, will treat you like family at a local restaurant. Patronize them whenever you can. It’s a genuine experience that makes a trip memorable.

As always, ENJOY! Coca-Cola ICE COLD.

Published in: on June 23, 2008 at 10:16 am  Comments (3)  
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